The Travel Proposal series is all about documenting and sharing the moments when we truly had a great time at those places.
In recent years, we’ve particularly enjoyed visiting mountain trails with beautiful scenery. As long as the timing is right, the effort of climbing is rewarded with wonderful views granted by nature alongside your travel companions. This time, we introduce the old Nakasendo trail from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku.
Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku Trail: Easy Difficulty, a Blend of Culture and Nature
The Nakasendo is a route from Japan’s Edo period connecting Tokyo to Kyoto. At that time, transport was reliant on human and animal power, and the entire Nakasendo was quite long. Therefore, inns known as “juku” were available along the route to provide rest and supplies to travelers. On this journey, we are traversing “Magome-juku” (Magome-juku) and “Tsumago-juku” (Tsumago-juku), two of the post towns along the route.
Why is this trail worth visiting? Here are two reasons:
The Trail is Moderately Easy, and You’ll Reach the End if Time Isn’t a Constraint
- You climb about 200 meters from Magome-juku to the Magome Pass (in Japanese, “toge” is read as とうげ, meaning the peak of the trail before descending). From the pass, it’s a gentle downhill of about 400 meters to Tsumago-juku. The trail doesn’t present any particularly challenging elevation differences.
- The trail condition is excellent. It’s entirely a walking path, with thorough separation from vehicles. The mountain trail is fully pedestrian, and even when parts of the route cross roads, there are designated walking spaces. The path from Magome-juku to Magome Pass is paved, while the route from Magome Pass to Tsumago-juku is a stone path through tall coniferous forests, with no strenuous climbing or difficult terrain. The signage along the way is very clear, and even if you can’t read Japanese, it’s almost impossible to get lost.
The Trail Combines Cultural and Natural Scenery
From Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku, the nearly seven kilometers of scenery maintain consistently high quality—something that seems achievable only in Japan.
- Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku preserve many old buildings from the Edo period. If you’re interested in ancient wooden structures, markets, and small streets, Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku offer a rich experience of Edo-period Japanese street flavor.
- Aside from the cultural and historical buildings, the mountain path integrates well with nature. However, it’s worth noting that since Japan is in the Northern Hemisphere, the sun shines from south to north, meaning the landscape before and after the Magome Pass is different. From Magome-juku to the pass, there’s ample sunlight, and maple trees, shrubs, and viewpoints are more common on this side. Beyond the pass toward Tsumago-juku, the area is mostly shaded, resulting in a predominance of tall coniferous forests.
Best Times to Visit Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku: Autumn and Winter
As you’ll be outdoors for extended periods, good weather is a crucial factor. It’s important to plan your trip with flexibility, aiming for days with clear skies and no rain. The season is also an important consideration, with the climate in the nearby city of Nagiso being as follows:
You can see that summer has many rainy days, with about a 50% chance of rain each month. October through April or May the following year is more suitable, especially November, the season for autumn leaves, and April for cherry blossoms. We particularly recommend the autumn foliage season in November. Although the Magome-Tsumago trail isn’t a famous spot for autumn leaves, the sunlight means there are many maples and ginkgo trees to enjoy from Magome to the Magome Pass. Beyond the pass to Tsumago-juku, there are mostly coniferous forests.
Transportation to Magome-juku or Tsumago-juku
Transportation is the most effort-intensive part of the planning. Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku are located about 100 kilometers northeast of Nagoya City. Here, we introduce three ways to get there: (1) seasonal direct buses, (2) train transfers, and (3) the easiest way: join a day tour.
Seasonal Bus
Meitetsu Bus offers a direct bus from Nagoya to both Magome and Tsumago. These buses run seasonally, for example, in 2024, they operate every weekend and during the estimated peak autumn foliage season from late October to late November, directly from Nagoya Station’s Meitetsu Bus Terminal to Magome and Tsumago.
- Pros: 1. Relatively low cost (for example, in 2024, a round trip costs 6000 JPY per person, about 1200 TWD, which is considered inexpensive compared to other transport methods). 2. No need to transfer, saving effort in transportation planning. 3. You can rest well on the bus. 4. If you’re not keen on walking the entire Nakasendo, you can simply enjoy the Edo-era street atmosphere by hopping between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku on the bus.
- Cons: 1. Traffic jams may occur, but departure times are fixed. For instance, the estimated travel time is 1 hour and 50 minutes, but in our experience, the journey took 20 minutes longer each way. This reduces the time in between, increasing the pressure to move quickly along the trail. 2. While you can complete the trail in the available time, the time to leisurely enjoy the streets of Magome and Tsumago may feel tight.
- Ticket Information: Check the Meitetsu Bus official website
Train (JR) and Bus
Using trains and buses involves checking timetables and considering connections, which can be challenging for those not familiar with Japan’s transit system. However, it’s still doable.
- Pros: 1. Unlike seasonal buses that are limited to entering at Magome and exiting at Tsumago, arranging your trip allows for a plan to enter at Tsumago and exit at Magome. 2. When there are no seasonal buses and you don’t want to join a day tour, this is still the only method.
- Cons: 1. More planning is required for transportation, and transfer times may lead to more time wasting compared to buses, although costs might not differ much.
When planning with JR and train resources, the key stations are JR Nagiso Station to the north and JR Nakatsugawa Station to the south.
Planning steps:
- Use JR Odekake to find your train route to Nagiso (enter Tsumago) or Nakatsugawa (enter Magome).
- Check the bus schedules to ensure you can make your connections. (Please refer to the latest bus timetables.)
For bus schedules, start with those from Nagiso to Tsumago-juku and Nakatsugawa to Magome-juku. Below are some example timetables, but the latest schedule must be checked on official websites, and this step is indispensable.
- Nakatsugawa to Magome: Kitaena Transport
- Nagiso to Tsumago: Tsumago-juku Official Website
Tsumago-juku to Magome-juku Day Tours
If you encounter the following two factors:
- Due to seasonal limitations, there might be no direct buses available.
- Challenges with language and transportation arrangements make public transit too difficult.
I would recommend opting for a day tour. For example, KLOOK offers a day tour design, providing 4 hours and 30 minutes from Tsumago-juku to Magome-juku, which is considered a well-planned schedule.
- 12:00 Tsumago-juku
- 12:45 Nakasendo Trail
- 15:45 Magome-juku
- 16:30 Depart on the bus back from Magome-juku
A guided walking plan through a day tour adds value. Therefore, whether to choose a day tour depends on the following conditions:
- (Ticket price – Transportation costs) = The value of time saved by taking public transit + The mental effort saved by not doing public transit homework
Considering KLOOK’s package, given the limited holiday and mental capacity, I think it’s a viable option.
Local day tour itinerary: KLOOK
Time Planning for Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku
From Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku, travel guidebooks state that the entire distance is 8.3 kilometers, with a recommended one-way time of 2 hours and 10 minutes. We actually completed it in just that time, 2 hours and 10 minutes, but everyone’s walking speed and needs differ, so here’s our group composition:
- Walking group: One male, one female, able to hike but not exercising regularly.
- This time doesn’t include exploring Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, only from the highest point in Magome (Uchimachi Observation Deck) to the entrance of Tsumago-juku (at the power plant).
- Because of the pressure of catching the return bus, if the bus leaves before we arrive, we’ll be stranded, so we walked briskly.
- No restroom breaks (we didn’t really need them).
- We spent extra time setting up a tripod for photos at each chosen spot (about five minutes each).
Here is the actual time spent walking:
12:39 Uchimachi Observation Deck (Magome Observation Deck)
13:07 Tenpoin Shrine
13:21 Magome Pass
13:33 Ichino-sawa Tea House
13:48 Entrance of the Road Pass
13:52 Major Crossroads
14:17 Koshin-zuka
14:22 Otsumago
14:43 Entrance to Tsumago-juku
14:49 Omata
Total: 2 hours and 10 minutes.
Points of Interest and Trail Features from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku
Magome-juku
At the Magome-juku bus stop, you will immediately see a sign that reads “Nakasendo Magome-juku.” This spot is 80.5 ri from Tokyo and 52.5 ri from Kyoto, marking the midpoint of the Nakasendo.
The entrance to Magome-juku. It’s really quite busy with people.
The entire Magome-juku is basically on a hillside, with stone-paved paths in between, and wooden houses from the Edo period on either side. It’s very atmospheric in the sunlight.
The water wheel with the name of Magome-juku inscribed on it.
Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku are known for their local specialty: chestnuts. Here, you can find various chestnut-based products, among which the red bean pancakes are our favorite. Enjoying chestnuts, a seasonal treat, on a sunny, crisp day is indeed a wonderful experience.
Uchimachi Observation Deck (Magome Observation Deck) 12:39
By continuing uphill from Magome-juku, you’ll reach the highest point: the Uchimachi Observation Deck (Magome Observation Deck). At this vantage point, you’ll have a clear view, and if the weather is good, the visibility is excellent, offering a refreshing experience. We captured some memorable photos here.
As previously mentioned, we arrived at the Magome bus stop around 11:30. After walking uphill through Magome-juku, trying chestnut pancakes, and having a simple lunch, it was already 12:39. We hesitated a bit, worrying whether we’d be able to complete the trail in two hours and catch the return bus to Tsumago-juku on time. Of course, the backup plan was to head straight down the mountain to catch a bus to Tsumago-juku.
Ultimately, we decided to go for it. After all, the main reason for coming was to walk this trail, wasn’t it?
The Adventure and Exploration of Traveling: Even if adequately prepared, anxiety persists. Trying despite the anxiety often results in the most memorable experiences.
(In hindsight, we could have spent less time in Magome-juku. It’s easy to lose track of time while exploring, especially if there’s pressure to walk the trail, but Tsumago-juku is also worth exploring for a long time.)
Tenpoin Shrine (Uphill Section) 13:07
Once you decide to start climbing, there are plenty of signs to help you find the right direction. Finding the path won’t be a problem.
Although the trail from Magome-juku to Magome Pass is mostly paved and less surrounded by tall coniferous forests, in the early stages, you occasionally find yourself in such a forest. However, the path is a stone road, very easy to walk on.
Here, you can see how the trail and the road are separated and cross each other, and you’ll notice that this entire route is very well maintained.
A view along the path, a water wheel and trail. (We’ve only walked 0.9 kilometers, but the signs along the way will indicate how much remains if you need to estimate time.)
On the path from Magome-juku to Magome Pass, an important element is the maple and ginkgo trees. Since this is the southern side of the mountain, it receives plenty of sunlight, resulting in a more colorful forest landscape than the section towards Tsumago-juku. Visiting in autumn is worthwhile, and you should take time to appreciate it.
Finally, you reach the Tenpoin Shrine. It’s 1.5 kilometers from Magome-juku. Next to it, there’s a restroom, making it a potential rest stop. However, we were too anxious about missing the bus, so we continued onward without stopping.
Magome Pass (Magome Toge) 13:21
The issue with bears is always a possibility in mountainous areas like this. On the descending mountain paths, you’ll periodically encounter bells set up to deter bears. If needed, you can also bring your own or rent a bell, making noise to ensure mutual respect between humans and bears.
Magome Pass (Magome Toge) is 790 meters above sea level and 2.2 kilometers from Magome-juku, marking about 1/3 of the entire trail, and it is the highest point on the trail. This small mountain peak doesn’t offer much of a view, nor are there shops nearby; it’s just a small pass. After parting ways with the vehicle track, the path leads to Tsumago-juku.
Magome Pass and my cup noodle hat.
Ichino-sawa Tea House (Tea House) 13:33
After passing Magome Pass, you’ll begin a continuous downhill section. This downhill stretch is primarily composed of forest paths, and while not paved with stones or asphalt like the uphill, the forest paths are still quite easy to walk.
Continuing onward, you will encounter the Ichino-sawa Tea House. It is 3.3 kilometers from Magome-juku, and the estimated walking time is about 70 minutes. We were walking faster than expected, reaching it in 60 minutes. On the exterior wall, you’ll see today’s date (2024/11/24) and the names of the countries visitors have come from. You can draw your country’s flag there.
This section of the old Nakasendo near Magome-juku is more internationalized than I imagined, attracting many foreign tourists.
Entrance of the Road Pass 13:48
As you continue downhill, you’ll encounter the most common scenery: towering conifer forests. The trees stand straight and tall.
When you include a person in the frame, it looks like this. (It’s a great spot to take photos—just be sure to prepare your clothing, and have your jacket ready XD)
I call this spot the Road Pass because it’s the only place where we took a wrong turn due to the absence of other markers, as the trail crosses a road here. On the downhill toward Tsumago-juku, when encountering a road, the Nakasendo continues on the opposite side of the road. There is no need to walk alongside the road like in Taiwan, where you sometimes walk dangerously close to traffic. There’s no risk of getting hit by a car on this trail.
If in doubt, wait a moment, and you’ll see travelers climbing from Tsumago-juku to Magome-juku, which will guide you on where to go next.
Koshin-zuka 14:17
The scenery on the way to Tsumago-juku is quite consistent, full of tall coniferous forests. Along the path, you’ll find many bells; just ring them to keep bears at bay.
At the Koshin-zuka, you’ll have walked 5.5 kilometers from Magome-juku, leaving 2.2 kilometers to Tsumago-juku. At this point, we’ve been walking for 1 hour and 38 minutes. By now, the tall coniferous forest landscape is mostly behind us, as we prepare to enter the town. There’s not much to note here; just try to save time for Tsumago-juku.
Otsumago 14:22
Continuing from Koshin-zuka to Otsumago, you’ll start to see many inns offering overnight stays, providing an experience of Edo-period life. Spending a whole day here would be very comfortable, but unfortunately, the lack of vacation time prevents that… (just kidding!)
This is the display at the entrance of one shop, which is very cute.
Here, “Otsumago” is simply the “big” Tsumago next to Tsumago-juku. It’s humorously labeled just like that…
But this area is basically urban scenery, so let’s quickly move on to Tsumago-juku.
Tsumago-juku 14:43
When you see the large sign for Tsumago-juku, you’re officially within the city limits. By this time, it’s 14:43, and our bus is scheduled to depart at 15:20. Realistically, there’s about 20 minutes to wander and shop in Tsumago-juku, with the remaining time reserved for walking and restroom breaks. The bus stop is on the outskirts of the town, requiring additional time to get there.
The urban scenery of Tsumago-juku, like Magome-juku, retains the overall look of wooden houses. However, compared to Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku is distinctly quieter, and due to the late arrival time (though two in the afternoon can’t be considered late), many items might have sold out.
Even though our time was short, we must mention this shop. It’s called Wachinoya, and specializes in manju, located next to the Tsumago-juku post office. They incorporate chestnut filling into the buns, creating a very authentic chestnut-flavored sweet bun, which is incredibly tasty. After a challenging hike, enjoying a sweet bun like this is highly satisfying.
Conclusion
In terms of travel experience, the trail from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku is definitely worth including as a day-trip proposal.
- Simple Route: Short distance (up to three hours), easy difficulty (no steep climbs), and clear paths.
- Beautiful Scenery: Rich with historical vibes from Edo-period wooden towns, maple leaves, ginkgo trees, and tall coniferous forests, offering a high scenic diversity.
- Delicious Food: Various chestnut-flavored products are unforgettable.
If you have the chance to visit Nagoya, I highly recommend planning a hiking trip from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku. As long as the weather cooperates, there’s a high chance of having an excellent travel experience.
